The Art of Lace – haute couture from Chanel to Iris van Herpen
From Beyoncé to Queen Máxima, lace is taking the fashion world by storm. Exceptionally fine lace creations by the world’s biggest fashion houses and designers have been brought together in a unique exhibition in the TextielMuseum. Straight from the catwalk, for the first time on show in the Netherlands.
Visitors during the audiotour in the exhibition. Photo: William van der Voort.
‘The Art of Lace’ offers an exclusive insider’s view of high fashion. More than forty designs are on display, from Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli and Yiqing Yin. Find out how fashion designers are working with lacemakers to create new haute couture applications and experience the versatility of lace.
Designer: Louis Vuitton. Cruise collection 2018. Photo: Fred Collier | Ville de Calais (Haute Dentelle)
Zaaloverzicht tentoonstelling. Foto: William van der Voort
Ontwerper: Jean Paul Gaultier. Collectie: Haute Couture Herfst/Winter 2016. Foto: Josefina Eikenaar.
Innovation in lace
Lace comes in many shapes and forms. ‘The Art of Lace’ focuses on the French Leavers lace and illustrates the close dialogue between the Leavers lacemakers and the fashion designers. Leavers lace looks delicate but is actually quite strong: unlike knitted lace, it does not fray. It can be transparent or opaque, can incorporate varying patterns, materials and colours, and can be woven in 3D. For Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld laminated the lace, allowing the stiffness of the material to accentuate the patterns, while Iris van Herpen is inspired by lace in 3D printing that mimics the effect of this ornate fabric. ‘The Art of Lace’ shows the newest trends in haute couture lace.
A behind-the-scenes look at lacemakers and couturiers: from the design and manufacture to the finished product, ready for the catwalk
Designer: Maison Margiela. Collection: Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2012. Photo: Fred Collier | Ville de Calais (Haute Dentelle).
Behind the scenes of haute couture
The ‘The Art of Lace’ exhibition offers an intimate insight into haute couture. While fashion houses usually keep their suppliers and techniques secret, this exhibition reveals the complete process behind each haute couture piece, with video’s and samples to admire and even touch. The process of lacemaking and couture is one of continuous development and innovation. ‘The Art of Lace’ is a tribute not only to the vision of the fashion designer, but also the creativity and skill of the lacemaker, showcasing the journey from thread to fashion show in a unique way.
Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier. Collection: Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. Photo: Robin (Haute Dentelle).
Fashion curator Sylvie Marot
‘The Art of Lace’ exhibition is an adaptation of ‘Haute Dentelle’, made and presented in the Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode in Calais, France, from June 2018 to January 2019. The exhibition was composed by fashion curator Sylvie Marot. She is the author of several fashion books and received the Grand Prix du Livre de Mode 2017 for the catalogue Anne Valérie Hash ‘Décrayonner’.
Accompanying the exhibition is Haute Dentelle, a richly illustrated book created by Sylvie Marot. This publication offers a beautiful photographic overview of the exhibition and features exclusive interviews with several haute couture fashion designers. It is written in French and English and is published by Snoeck. It can be purchased here for 35 euros, and in the TextielShop during the exhibition.